NYFW Fall 14 Highlights

30 years of Donna Karan
Everything about Donna Karan’s 30th anniversary show was a grandiose affair, held on Wall Street in the building known as “The Corner” that once housed J.P. Morgan & Co. The backdrop of the designer’s winter 2014 show — a hazy female figure, coming and going, in a trippy film from the New York multimedia artist Steven Sebring — underscored how much has changed for women in the three decades that Ms. Karan has been in business. Karan’s own designs seemed to have evolved, with only one of her famous bodysuits putting an appearance. Instead, Karan sent a long, lean, leggy look down the runway before an audience that included Katie Holmes and Rita Ora. Karan told the press, “Thirty years later, I see style as an evolution, a unique reflection of who you are, where you’ve been and where you are going.”

REGIS COLIN/Nowfashion.com

Carrying over from spring all types of tartan and popping up in presentations from Theory to Timo Weiland and Lucio Castro, tartan remains a standard of cold-weather dressing. In contrast to the bright hues of the past season, Vera Wang, Rosie Assoulin, and Honor are bringing the look back to its menswear origins in shades of black and grey. Acting as a neutral with personality, they are femme takes on a typically boyish fabrication.

Matteo Volta/Imaxtree

Pastel and baby pinks were popular the past few seasons, but Fall 2014 saw the emergence of bold, brash pinks, adding excitement to darker looks at Thakoon, Altuzarra and Alexander Wang. Are you woman enough?

The Cut

The Red Dress
The LBD got thrown some major shade when the red dress made a triumphant return at NYFW in sultry crimson shades at Prabal Gurung, Rag & Bone and Narciso Rodriguez.

Alessandro Lucioni/ The Cut

Animal Instinct
Woolen shearling fabric is warm, animal-friendly and cozy, but Phillip Lim 3.1 took it further with pastels and Rag & Bone went vested. Altuzarra paired his with a slinky dress– all the better for versatility. BCBGMAXAZARIA had fun with shearling on everything from coats to panels on tunics. Peter Som embraced leopard prints and feathers while Jason Wu featured fox jackets and fur handbags, while Nicholas K’s vaguely “Nanook of the North” headgear was an extreme embrace of the trend.

The Cut

Heavy Metals
Diane von Furstenberg celebrated her 40 years of the wrap dress by putting 14 metallic gold dresses (and one jumpsuit) down the runway all wrapped at the waist in some form; while Tracy Reese boldly delivered metallic gold boots and booties. Other designers took more subtle approaches. Donna Karan added metallic to the first quarter of a wool jacket in her DKNY collection, and Vivienne Tam incorporated the material by weaving it into a crotched top.

Alessandro Lucioni/ The Cut


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